10 August 2010 by Dan

Let Them Eat…

Where to begin?

I fear I may be taking this adorable travelogue down a dark, dark path.

Yes, Marie Antoinette is holding a giant bottle of placenta. No, it is not a mistranslation, they are actually selling placenta. Yes, I stood in the middle of Shibuya train station, one of Tokyo’s busiest, trying to wrap my head around the ad. No, you aren’t supposed to apply it to your skin so you will look younger. Yes, you are supposed to drink it, “it” being the placenta, an actual placenta being sold for human consumption, so your skin will look younger. No, if you send me $60 and your address, I will not walk out to my local health food store and buy you placenta and mail it to your house. Just kidding, yes, I will do that for you.

Perhaps there are additional questions? To be honest, I really don’t have too many answers, so let’s turn to the Web site of the good folks at Placenta-Pro, makers of “the world’s long awaited placenta elixir with 30,000 mg of ‘Horse-origin:'”

Q: So….

A: “Those who pursue health and beauty throughout the world have overwhelmingly praised the placenta.”

Q: What?

A: “Particularly because it is in a drinkable form, the fresh placenta components are easily absorbed and condition both body and skin health from within.”

Q: Right, but…

A: “PLACENTA-PRO 30,000 contains an extravagant 30,000 mg of 100% pure horse placenta extract.”

Q: Everyone knows pig placenta is the way to go for softer skin. Are you trying to pull one one me?

A: “The fact that horses have high temperatures and delicate constitutions alleviates any concern about viruses or germs.”

Q: Oh, well that makes sense. I guess it’s true what they say. You can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s afterbirth ear. Where do placentas come from?

A: “Placentas come from horses raised in an excellent Kyrgyz environment.”

Q: I’m going to stop you right there.

A: “Guided by the government of the Kyrgyz Republic — contracts are drawn up with carefully selected farms in the rich natural surroundings for our supply of exceedingly nutrient-rich horse placentas.”

Q: We’re done here.

[There is a need for a few editor’s notes: 1) Placenta-Pro is not the maker of “The Placenta.” The Placenta might actually be made from pig-origin. I’m sorry to deceive. 2) I’m not making fun of another culture. I’m making fun of quacks. 3) A quick search of the Internet will show plenty of people have already addressed the great placenta debate. 4) Placenta-Pro 30,000 comes in orange.]

4 August 2010 by Angela

I’ll Stab You.

I thought I’d reveal some of what my crafty little fingers are up to when not riding bikes through the city or sloshing through fish guts. Three weeks of radio silence, or, shall I say cybershush? (thanks for that, spoppy!) combined with a few cross-Pacific flights, and this embroidery project didn’t stand a chance. Honestly, it was so addictive I couldn’t put it down.

You may remember that during one of my first ventures into a craft store here in Tokyo, I emerged with some sashiko supplies. Sashiko 刺し子 literally meaning “little stabs,” is a Japanese style of embroidery used to decoratively reinforce fabric, though nowadays I think it’s all for fun. The pattern I picked up is called shippo tsunagi 七宝つなぎ, or seven treasures, and it was printed directly onto the fabric. You simply follow the lines.

Sashiko needles are really long for optimum stabbing. On the left you’ll see my regular embroidery needle, and on the right, I can’t believe I found a US quarter!

Stab the needle through the fabric, following the pattern, until you have a few stitches lined up. Then, pull your thread through.

I found a rhythm, doing this over and over again. Stab stab stab, pull. The patterns look a little confusing until you break it down into small parts. Stab stab stab, over and over again.

And voila! So now the question is, what to do with my finished block? I have some ideas, but I’d love to hear your suggestions. In the meantime, I think I might have to find some more patterns. I’m still feeling a little stabby.

Update – since posting this morning, I’ve had even more sashiko excitement! I wandered into a store in my neighborhood (that coincidentally only sells blue and white things) and discovered they offer sashiko classes! I immediately signed up for the next one in September. I might also consider it language practice, since the whole class will be in Japanese… Can’t wait!

3 August 2010 by Angela

Sweet, Sweet Slushie

Seriously, this was so good.

It didn’t look like much from the photo I pointed at on the menu (I had limited choices and the other one was all green), but it turns out this ice is slightly sweet, and underneath the ice was azuki 小豆 (red bean), which is also slightly sweet, and it was the perfect treat for a hot rainy-season day. I’m not totally sure what the little green and white globs were, but everyone else was dipping them in the sweet slushie juice, so I did the same. The rose tea and matcha were a perfect complement.

The other great thing about this whole experience was that I successfully read (sort of) the sign out front, ventured inside even though it was on the second floor (gasp!), traded words in Japanese with the waitress, and then was rewarded with a delicious red bean slushie. Victory is mine!

So who else thinks this thing looks like a panda? I don’t totally see it, but Dan insists… perhaps I was just too focused on the deliciousness.

Kanoko 鹿乃子 5-7-19-1, 2F Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo

2 August 2010 by Angela

Bike Journey

Today I bought a used bike. I took the subway for 30 minutes to my meeting point at Nakano-sakaue Station, an area just northwest of Shinjuku. Then, I had to get my new wheels home, without the help of the train.

First, agh!

Then, ah.

Next, wow.

Then I started to recognize where I was…

And finally, home!

The whole trip was just over 10 km and took me 2 hours, which is funny because the walking directions on Google Maps are listed at 2 hours and 5 minutes… well, OK, I did stop and buy beer. I couldn’t bring my new mamachari home with an empty basket!

It’s true, this little mama chariot doesn’t look quite as mama as it could, which is just fine by me. It gets my precious cargo home just the same.

ps – You can see my route here.

27 July 2010 by Angela

Tsukiji, say what?

One of the best things I’ve done in Tokyo thus far is visit the Tsukiji fish market. Officially called the Tokyo Metropolitan Central Wholesale Market, Tsukiji (pronounced “skee-gee”) is where 2,000 tons of seafood come into Japan every day. Did you get that? Every day! With the auctions beginning at 5:00 am, I dragged my feet a bit in getting around to visit here — I thought, if this place requires me getting up so dang early, it better be worth it. Since I had a friend visiting who was up at the crack of dawn with a bit of jet-lag, it seemed as good a time as any. With iced coffee and onigiri in hand, we set off soon after the subway started running.

A gigantic warehouse complex packed full of tiny stalls where wholesale vendors peddle their goods, the market is not for the faint of heart. We picked our way through the skinny walkways, trying to avoid the remains of who-knows-what at our feet. The place was busy and packed so full of people doing their daily business that it felt like a place we really shouldn’t be. But one of the great things about visiting Tsukiji is that you get to see the real deal. No one asked us to leave, and a few men in rubber boots even nodded or smiled at us as we passed. Fish flop at every corner, or are gutted and sitting on styrofoam platters. Every sort of sea creature is for sale, some still alive, all packed on ice or in huge plastic tubs. One live shrimp jumped out of its bucket as we walked by, and at one point I’m pretty sure I was fish-slapped by a stray in a passing tank. Water mixed with fish guts sloshed around the floor.

The market was almost chaotic, but perfectly orchestrated. By far the loudest place I’ve found in Tokyo, people shout and little three-wheeled motorized carts speed by (seriously, they are fast), but everyone is respectful and no one crashes and everything moves together in unison. It was really amazing and beautiful to watch, despite the glassy eyeballs staring up at me from the styrofoam.

Then we found the tuna. Tuna is a big deal in Japan, and once I saw them at Tsukiji I understood why. I was mesmerized by them. They are as big as me and flash frozen, so the giant fish literally look like ghosts. They’re stacked on palettes, driven around by carts, sent through table saws, and hacked up for sale. Their insides have a deep red color unlike any other fish in the market (they’re warm blooded!), and create a dramatic contrast to the other fish in mostly whites and grays. A slab of tuna looks like a juicy t-bone steak, and could cost you $50 or more. I watched the bright white and red tuna parts being carted around the market and was incredibly moved. I actually felt haunted by them.

After learning that bluefin tuna is seriously endangered, Dan and I have tried to stop eating it, a difficult undertaking while living in Japan. I’m still not quite sure what I was feeling at Tsukiji, I suppose simultaneous awe and heartbreak. It is a very weird feeling, and I remain conflicted. Tsukiji is an amazing place to experience, but part of what makes it so is exactly the thing it hurts.

In case any readers wander upon this post and want to visit Tsukiji, the closest subway station is Tsukiji-Shijo on the Odeo line, though it seems the Tsukiji stop on the Hibiya line works as well. If you want to make it in time for the fish auctions at 5 am, you’ll have to take a taxi or walk.

Also, if you’d like more information on the peril of the bluefin tuna, there’s a hefty yet worthwhile article here.

25 July 2010 by Angela

Shopping Spree

While shopping for refrigerators today, we got a little sidetracked. Electronics stores in this city are a whirlwind of loudspeakers, blinkie lights, and 3D screens. And that was just the rice cookers.

p.s. 3D anime is just as confusing.

22 July 2010 by Angela

Home Sweet Home

Here it is, the long-anticipated apartment tour! OK, maybe only long-anticipated by my mother, but nonetheless, it’s finally here for the taking. And talk about a blank slate!

It may not look like much, but I’m pretty happy with our 39 square meters (for you kids in the USA, that’s about 420 square feet). Come on in, let me show you around!

As you come in the front door, you’ll notice the little Japanese-style entry way. The recessed floor here is called a genkan (げんかん). Shoes off, please! We’re digging the slipper-clad lifestyle in these parts. You’ll also notice all the closet space:

Some of this space is used to stash shoes and umbrellas, removed while in the genkan. Since this is most of the storage space for the apartment, I’ll be using this area as a linen closet as well. While standing in the entry, let’s do a 180-degree turn to find ourselves peering into the bathroom:

This bathroom feels gigantic. It is both Japanese and Western styled; I like to think it is the best of both worlds.

The cabinets and walls are pretty plain, but a nice sink and Japanese super toilet share the space.

Yup, there’s our auto flush toilet. You can see it also has a computer console — maybe someday we’ll be brave enough to figure out what all those buttons do.

Past the sink and toilet is the Japanese-style shower room. I love the shower room. In a Japanese home, it is customary to soap up and rinse off before you get in your tub of hot water, so the entire room is waterproof. For me, it is more like a giant, heated shower. You can also hang clothes to dry and run a heater, auto fill the tub (a nice little voice tells you what is happening, though I can’t yet understand her), and spray down the whole room for cleaning. Brilliant, right? I don’t plan on taking too many baths and am a little sad that the tub is taking up valuable square meters better served by a sofa (ok, maybe not in that exact location), but overall I can’t complain about the shower room. Like it, like it, love love love!

After you step out of the entry, you get a brief view of the rest of the apartment. To the left, the bedroom, to the right, the living room.

Attached to the bedroom there is a little balcony. Many people in Tokyo hang their clothes and bedding out to air on nice days. This balcony is a little on the small side, so it might be better served by some potted herbs.

A reverse view of the bedroom reveals the closets. Take a look at those beauties! We won’t yet talk about who gets the big one…

Now we head back into the living room. I love the built-in bookshelves. Also, you can almost make out our view through the window. Not quite as awesome as our last place on the 11th floor, but not too shabby either. At night, we can still see Tokyo Tower in all its gaudy glory.

A reverse view of this room give us a glimpse of the kitchen (you can also see the door that separates the entry from the rest of the apartment).

Perhaps a little boring, but nothing I can’t fix with some home-stitched linens. And now, a view of my one disappointment…

Look at that tiny little range! Two burners, and no oven. Not even a fish broiler. There go my dreams of opening a sidewalk pie stand. Sorry, Tokyo, your loss.

A peek at my other kitchen challenge — in Japan, an “unfurnished” apartment really means unfurnished, no appliances included. In this photo you can see the cubbyhole where our fridge will go, someday.

So there you go — our new tiny home in the biggest city in the world. And really, right now, I wouldn’t have it any other way. Just think of the time I’ll save cleaning…

16 July 2010 by Angela

We’re Back!

Apologies for our long absence. Whew!

Life without Internet has been pretty tough — I’ve had to survive the past two weeks with only quick peeks at my email using a Blackberry. Egads! I feel like a clumsy giant typing on that tiny keyboard.

In all seriousness, we vow to be back in full force very soon. Just a few more days and our Tokyo Internet connection will be up and running, and I’ll soon be able to resume my musings of mystery food, our first trek into the Japanese countryside, and perhaps — if you are lucky — a sneak peek at our karaoke adventure. So stay tuned, I have a lot to share!

28 June 2010 by Angela

New Neighborhood = New Food!

We made it into our new apartment! I’ll provide the full tour later, but I can give you a few tidbits now:

We have an automatic flush toilet. I thought those were just for restaurants and airports, but apparently not.
I’m really glad we decided against a queen sized bed (it wouldn’t have fit).
“Blank slate” is an understatement.
Red bean paste waffles and a shop dedicated to kaleidoscopes are just steps from the front door.

But one of the most exciting things about my day was lunch. I picked up a quick bento box lunch at the nearby grocery store while I waited for our mattress to be delivered, and it was the most delicious thing! Maybe it’s just that everything tastes better when you are eating off the floor, but I thought it was worth sharing. Here is a sneak peek of the apartment with my picnic lunch:

That is right, I also picked all of the other important things — toilet paper, rice crackers and iced coffee. But back to my bento…

It may not look like much in its little foam container, but it had a surprise in store. The grocery store had probably 12 different options, and I chose this one because of what I thought was a panko-fried shrimp hiding there in the top right corner. You can’t go wrong with fried shrimp (except when you can, ahem). But after I bit into it, I discovered it was actually Japan’s version of the crab cake!

Eastern Shore, eat your heart out. It also had a little crab claw sticking out, like a dainty little crab cake handle.

Of course I did what any self-respecting girl in my situation should do, I cracked that little claw open and sucked all the delicious crab meat right on out. My mother-in-law and her Maryland roots would be proud.

Because I know some of you are wondering, I’ve taken my best guess at what else was in my lunch:

And (almost) everything was tasty, particularly the sweet potato and pickle combo. Who would of thought?! I have to admit, I skipped the mystery cube and carrot — sorry Japan, not even you can get me to like carrots.

With that, I must unpack (again – this is the 3rd time in 3 months, for those of you who are counting). Saké Puppets will be offline for a few days until Internet service is up in our new apartment, so in the meantime, send us your comments! We love to hear from you!

25 June 2010 by Angela

I’ll Pass on the Cheese, Please

Today I took a walk to find our new apartment. Yes, that is correct — we signed the lease contract yesterday, and I couldn’t remember where the apartment was, what the neighborhood was like, or even what most of the apartment itself looked like. My notes from our days of apartment hunting said “Nice closets!” and I guess that was enough to convince me it was a place worth living in. I have been surprisingly nonchalant about committing to something so big, which is pretty uncharacteristic of my designy personality. But I guess that is what happens when you see 20+ apartments in 3 days in a massive city, and just need a place to live.

After I found our apartment (and was satisfied with what I found), I wandered over to Hiro-o, the neighborhood next door. I was surprised to find Hiro-o had an international grocery store near the subway station. I went in looking to pick up some sushi for dinner, but got annoyed because all they had was Sargento shredded cheese.

I might have to consider this tiny event a major milestone. Don’t get me wrong, cheese, I miss you, but sushi, you are so much better right now.